Algunos tips para el que quiera aprender.

[jarogo]

Empezado por Roland

Que ganas específicamente con alimentar el BEC por fuera del ESC?????

Pregunto porque no entiendo los beneficios

Porque electricamente lo que estas haciendo es colocar mas carga a la bateria y debería durar mucho menos al tener un consumo permanente y no intermitente.

Hola Roland

Esta solución está orientado cuando usas un servo potente, sobre todo digital(caracteristicas explicadas mas abajo) , sobre todo si estas practicando crawler y el BEC del ESC tiene poca corriente de salida.

El consumo que está sometida la bateria es la misma , ya que la corriente consumida en cualquier caso sale desde la misma fte. de energía...usea la batería.Además al agregar un BEC por fuera se aumenta un poco el consumo pero tambien disminuyo el consumo del BEC que trae el ESC.
Tambien te recuerdo que un BEC es una pequeña fte. de poder regulada.
Obviamente cualquier dispositivo electrónico que agregue agregará algo de consumo(aunque despreciable), pero lo que se busca en definitiva es darle la potencia que necesita el servo para que funcione correctamente en todo momento y no se chupe. Para eso uno pone servos de 10 k. y mas.....eso no es gratis, alguien tendrá que entregar esa energia...la batería a traves del BEC.

Espero haber aclarado el punto.

De todos modos quedo atento a comentarios

saludos

[Roland]

Empezado por jarogo

Hola Roland

Esta solución está orientado cuando usas un servo potente, sobre todo digital(caracteristicas explicadas mas abajo) , sobre todo si estas practicando crawler y el BEC del ESC tiene poca corriente de salida.

El consumo que está sometida la bateria es la misma , ya que la corriente consumida en cualquier caso sale desde la misma fte. de energía...usea la batería.Además al agregar un BEC por fuera se aumenta un poco el consumo pero tambien disminuyo el consumo del BEC que trae el ESC.
Tambien te recuerdo que un BEC es una pequeña fte. de poder regulada.
Obviamente cualquier dispositivo electrónico que agregue agregará algo de consumo(aunque despreciable), pero lo que se busca en definitiva es darle la potencia que necesita el servo para que funcione correctamente en todo momento y no se chupe. Para eso uno pone servos de 10 k. y mas.....eso no es gratis, alguien tendrá que entregar esa energia...la batería a traves del BEC.

Espero haber aclarado el punto.

De todos modos quedo atento a comentarios

saludos

Perfecto, entiendo la idea.

Creo que lo que propones puedes ganar perfectamente la energia necesaria para un servo de alto rendimiento, disminuyendo uso del BEC que está en el ESC.

El consumo, bajo el punto de vista que propones, debería aumentar, pero debe ser marginal.

Suerte con la modificación y luego nos cuentas con pruebas sobre hechos consumados.

[jarogo]

Empezado por Roland

Perfecto, entiendo la idea.

Creo que lo que propones puedes ganar perfectamente la energia necesaria para un servo de alto rendimiento, disminuyendo uso del BEC que está en el ESC.

El consumo, bajo el punto de vista que propones, debería aumentar, pero debe ser marginal.

Suerte con la modificación y luego nos cuentas con pruebas sobre hechos consumados.

Funciona

El único problema es que se debe intervenir varios ramales de cables...en fin hay que buscar algunos adaptadores o si no entrar a cortar.
saludos

[Pelao Daza]

Algunos tips en Ingles.

What does the turns mean on a electric motor?

A turn is number of times the wire inside the motor is wrapped around the armature poles. Stock motors have 27 wraps (or turns) of 22 gauge wire, that is, 22 gauge wire wrapped around the armature poles 27 times. Modified motors can have as low as 5 or 6 turns or as many as 20 to 25.o have more comm wear.

What does single, double, triple, or quadruple mean on a modified motor?

A Single has one thick wire, a Double is a two thinner wires, a Triple has three thinner wires than the Double, a Quad has four thinner wires, and so on. So, an 8 Double will have TWO (Double) thin wires wrapped around the pole 8 times. A 12 Triple will have THREE (Triple) wires wrapped around the pole 12 times, and the 10 Single will have ONE (Single) thick wire wrapped around the pole 10 times.

What are the advantages of a single, double, triple, or quadruple modified motor?

A Single provides harder acceleration (torque), while a Quad will provide a much smoother power band. The 8, 12, 10, 14, or 16 turn motors will provide a lot more rpm than a stock 27 turn (less wire means less weight), but, obviously, the 8 will have the best rpm (typically).


Are there any other differences between a stock and modified motor?

A Stock motor has a set timing and has bushing in the can and the end bell. A modified motor has adjustable timing and has bearings in the can and the end bell.

What is a motor lathe?

A lathe is a machine that cuts away small amounts of the comm to restore it to a trued state. Lathing or cutting the comm can be done many times to return it to an almost new state. Having a comm that is smooth and no grooves from the brushes, helps the brushes make better contact.

Are the different kinds of lathes?

Yes, there are lathes that are for non-rebuildable (closed end bell) motors and lathes for rebuildable stock and modified motors. There are also two different kinds of bits for a lathe. A Carbide bit usually comes stock with a lathe. A carbide bit doesn't last as long a diamond bit. A Diamond bit is usually a upgrade and with proper care they should last for the duration of your racing career. Diamond bits cut the comm more accurately than a carbide bit.

What tools do I need to clean a motor?

A comm stick, motor spray, soldering iron, solder, small point Philips screwdriver, cotton swabs, bushing or bearing oil, comm drops, hobby knife, rag and possibly new brushes. If you are really lucky a motor lathe or a friend that can true the comm for you.

[Pelao Daza]

Siguen los tips en Ingles ...

What is the best way to clean you motor?

Cleaning your motor can be easy by following these few simple steps.

Step #1:

Remove the motor from you vehicle.

Step #2:

Remove the springs. Note which color of spring is located on the positive (+) side of the motor. The positive side marked with a small + sign on the top of the end bell.

Step #3:

Slide the brushes out of the brush hood. If you are going to have your armature lathed then skip to step #5

Step #4:

Insert the comm stick into the slot where a brushes go in the brush hood. Give the motor a few spins in one direction and then repeat going the opposite. You can attach a pinion gear to the end to help you.

Step #5:

Unscrew the end bell from the can. Note is this is a modified motor make sure you mark the timing and position of the end bell with the can.

Step #6:

Clean the inside of the end bell with motor. Make sure there are no motor shims inside before you clean the end bell. Note: If you are planning on using the same brushes again do not get motor spray on them. Motor spray robs brushes of there lubrication.

Step #7:

Remove the armature from the can and place it aside. Note the location of a shims and washers.

Step #8:

Clean the motor can. You can use motor spray, but it is not recommended that it be sprayed on the magnets. The motor spray can eat away at the glue that holds the magnets in the can. Use a mild soap with water to clean the inside.

Step #9:

Use a cotton swab to make sure no dirt is in the bushing or bearing especially where the arm goes through. A little motor spray applied to the tip of the swab helps get rid of any debris.

Step #10:

Have someone lathe you armature. If you don't have a lathe skip to step #11. Make sure the gaps in the comm are free of any extra copper. You can do this by running a hobby knife or razor blade through the gaps. Be careful not to scratch or touch the comm.

Step #11:

Spray the armature off with motor spray and place it back in the can and screw the end bell back in place. Remember to shim it the same as before and stock rebuildable motors have a small tab on the end bell that lines up with a notch on the motor can. Screw in the two set screws.

Step #12:

Replace the brushes if they are short, show discoloration, have chips or signs of excessive wear. If not skip to step #12B. Brushes come with two different kinds of shunts, eyelets or just straight. If is recommend that you solder you brushes to top of the end bell rather than using the eyelets for better electrical contact. If you do decide to solder the brush on, then lightly tin the end of it with solder and attach it to the end bell. If the solder doesn't stick to the end bell, then use light sandpaper to rough up the surface. Make sure that you don't get to much solder on the shunt, because this will make the brush have difficultly moving in the brush hood once the springs are reattached.

Step #12B:

To reuse an existing brush clean the brushes with the comm stick to get rid of any glaze or deposits. I recommend protecting you fingers with a rag so the small pieces of fiber glass from the comm stick don't get in your fingers. Don't ever touch the end of the comm stick. Fiberglass hurts and stays in your fingers for along time.

Step #13:

If you have comm drops put a drop on the end of each brush. This help lubricate the brushes and will help the brushes properly seat against the comm. Put the brushes back inside the brush hood.

Step #14:

Re attach the springs. Remember which one goes on the positive (+) side of the end bell.

Step #15:

Apply a few drop of oil to the bushing or bearings.

You are now ready to break in your clean motor!

How do I break in a rebuilt motor?

You will need a 4 cell battery pack and a way to attach it to your motor. Attach the 4 cell pack to you motor. Make sure you note the polarity (+) and (-) on the motor is the same as the battery. The top part of the battery with the nipple is positive (+). Let the motor run for almost a minute or so. I don't recommend spraying motor spray on the comm while it is running, because motor spray is flammable and duh there are sparks being made between the brushes and the comm. Oh and make sure you lubed your bushing or bearing with oil. This will help the arm spin freer in the can.

What are capacitors?

Capacitors? help stop radio noise caused by electric motors that may interfere with your receiver and cause radio glitches. For more information on soldering capacitors see my soldering tips page.

How should I gear my motor?

This depends largely on the type of motor, track layout, track conditions, and the type of driver you are. First need to understand what a gear ratio is. Check out my RC TUNING page for a gear ratio explanation and starting point gearing chart. Before you put down your car on the track. Study the design of the track. To often people gear their cars to the straightway and not the whole track. If the track is full of turns, use a small pinion gear that will give you more acceleration or bottom end speed. The reason behind this is because before your car reached top speed, the next turn would come up and your car would have to slow down again. If the track has many straight and long paths use a larger pinion gear that will give you more top speed acceleration. The reason behind this is because a straight track will give you a longer period for your car to travel at top speed. Just remember the larger the pinion the less bottom end / take off speed you have. Always make sure you are checking to see if the motor is running hot when you take it off the track after three or four minutes. If the motor is hot go to a smaller size pinion. Every motor is different so experiment.
What do the numbers mean on a stock pro motor.

How do I know which motor is the best?

The labels on many stock pro or dyno'ed motors have the following abbreviations: RPM or revolutions per minute, Power or Wattage, Eff or Efficiency and Torq or Torque. The main number to look at would be the Power or Wattage of the motor. This represents the overall power of the motor. A motor that has a better power rating than other motors is most likely to produce faster top speeds and better acceleration. For a Trinity motor a power rating of 130.0W is really good. The Efi on the label is the motors overall efficiency. The higher this number is will result in better run times and cooler, more consistent performance. Torq and RPM are interrelated because usually the lower the RPM the more Torque a motor will have. Even if you have two of the same kind of motor you may have to gear them different depending on there Torq and RPM. For the most part picking a motor with the best power rating and then looking at the other numbers is your best bet.

How do you care for the magnets in the motor can?

The best way to care for you magnets is to avoid overheating your motor. A magnets loose magnetism, but you can slow this process down by finding a gear ratio that doesn't overheat them. Using a small pinion and a larger spur gear will help in keeping your motor cool. So let the motor cool off before you go run the next pack. Avoid trying to cool a motor down to rapidly because there is a possibility of cracking the magnets. Be especially careful when using compressed air cans, because when turned upside down they can actually freeze objects. Also avoid putting to many harsh chemicals on them while cleaning. Many chemicals can eat the glue that adheres the magnets to the can. If you have lots of money to blow then you could also get a magnetizer which gives magnets their life back.

[Pelao Daza]

Are there different types of springs and if so what do they do?

Springs come in a variety of different degrees. 90, 115, 135, 150, 180. Each type of spring puts a different tension on the brush. The most common of the springs are the 135 degree and 150 degree springs. The 135 degree springs will give you more RPM, less power, same torque and less comm wear than a 150 degree spring. The 150 degree spring will give you less RPM, more power, same torque, better results overall for stock and modified racing and more comm wear than a 135 degree spring. The 135 degree spring is the most common type of spring used.

What is a shunt wire?

A shunt wire is the wire that is part of a brush that you connect to the motor hood. This wire is made from very thin twisted strings of copper and are usually tin coated. The wires are very thin to make it as flexible as possible. This is done so that when a softer spring is used so it won't stick in the brush hood. Some brushes are even available with two shunt wires for increased power but often cause a disadvantage due to sticking.

What are brushes?

A brush is what makes contact with commutator and conducts electricity to the comm.

Should I use a brush with an eyelet or no eyelet?

If you are just beginning in RC the eyelet is probably the best way to go. The eyelet provides an easy way to change brushes. If you do decide to go with an eyelet type brush make sure is gold plated. This type of eyelet will have the best contact. If you can't make a good solder joint a screwed on eyelet is much better than a screwed on eyelet. When you become a more experienced racer then I would recommend soldering your brushes to the top of the motor hood. Just be careful to not over tin the end of the shunt wire. Try to use a smaller tip soldering iron when soldering your brushes to help not over tinning you shunt wire. Also once you have you brush in place, whether you solder or use the eyelet, make sure that the brush can move freely without sticking in the brush hood holder.

Are brushes made from different compounds?

Brushes are made from three different compounds (Graphite, Copper and Silver) each one has different characteristics depending what type of racing you are going to do.

What types of brushes are recommended for stock and what type are recommend for modified?

A brush made from a silver compound is recommended for stock. Silver Brushes also leave sludge behind that can only be removed by lathing the comm. Silver should be used for competitive racing where the last percentage of power is needed to win. A brush made from a copper compound is recommended for modified. Copper brushes don't leave behind sludge and works best with high RPM motors.

What are the main differences between the three types of brushes?

The graphite brushes are not really recommended for racing. They have the lowest comm wear, lowest brush wear, high lubrication and the lowest power. The copper brushes are recommended for modified racing. They have the medium comm wear, high brush wear, lowest lubrication and medium power. The silver brushes are recommend for stock racing. They have the least amount of resistance. The have the highest comm wear, medium brush wear, medium lubrication and highest power.

Are there different shapes of brushes for stock and modified?

Yes, stock brushes are a lay down brush they are wider than a stand up brush. The purpose of the laydown brush is to get maximum wrap around the comm to increase the RPM and are usually thicker than a modified brush. Modified or standup brushes are taller than a laydown brush.

What is timing?

A motor's timing is the position o its brushes relative to its magnets. When brushes are perfectly centered over the magnets, the motor has zero timing. When you rotate the endbell (and the brushes) in the direction in the direction opposite the motor's rotation, the timing is "advanced". When the end-bell is rotated beyond the zero-degree mark in the same direction as the motor's rotation, the timing is "retarded".

How is timing measured?

It is meaured by the degrees the brushes have been rotated away from the center position. Most motors come with a lablel that indicates the degrees and calibration marks to show where the timing is set. Even though timing refers to the position of the brushes in relation to the magnets, all motors have either a moldeded-in pointer or an endbell screw that measures timing at a "zero point". This is usually aligned exactly between the two mounting screws on the bottom of the motor can.

Can timing be advanced or retarded to far and what are the effects?

Yes, when the timing is advanced to far the amp draw and motor rpm increase, but overall efficiency and torque begins to suffer. When timing is retarded at all, the motor will run slower and hotter (which is why it's never really used!); zero timing is the lowest point at which a motor timing should be set. A good rule of thumb is that motors with 15 of fewer turns are best set with 0 to 15 degrees of advanced timing, and winds of 15 and above work with as high as 20 degrees of advance timing. If you are unsure how much timing to run, set it on the cautious side and run with less timing; your motor will run cooler, and your car will also run longer!

What is Ackermann? I know its named after someone but what does it do?

Ackerman has nothing to do with electric motors. It is a term used to describe a part of stearing geometry. Ackerman is the relationship between the angle your wheels and the center point of the curve you are navigating. When your R/C vehicle turns, the inside wheel and outside wheel will be at slightly different angles depending on how tight the "turn" is. However in an ideal situation, if you were to draw a straight line from the center of the arc or curve you are creating by driving around a corner to the center of your wheel (as veiwed from above), the wheels should be perpendicular to that line. This is adjustable on some cars and not on others. To the best of my knowledge on-road vehicles are primarily the most adjustable and the ones who use this setting the most.

What determines the number of the motor?
I have read most motors are 540, the motor's in the E Maxx are 550, why is this?
What determines the number that's given?

This is a metric size in (mm) which was introduced as a numbering system by a German motor company named Graupner. It is based on the size of a Ferrite. So if the ferrite measured 54mm it was simplified by adding a 0 behind it and then you had a 540. Some people think it is the measurement of the can which is not true.
However not in diameter in this instance, but by length. Simply put the larger motor produces more power. Due to the quality of materials, and number of windings, this isn't always the case with all motors due to different makings of materials to develop magnetic energy.

Is the number given the thickness of Laminations used?

No this is based on strickly the size of the can for the material used to fit.

Is it the more laminations the stronger the magnetic field?

Yes, the more material used creates a stronger field of transferable magnetic conversion.

Does this also make it heavier creating less revolutions?

To a degree while in starting motion, but the Magnetic current created and the revolutions creating the inertia will compensate for the mass.

Can you advance the timing Or are 550 motors significanly lower on rpms?

The best answer would be that it can be done, but the methods are hard to explain and sometimes have been proven to be false claims on behalf of those who have tried it. Some changes involved changing the comm and zapping the motor.


So are brushless motors by far the best?
*Higher rpm.
*Higher torque.
*Less maintenance.
*Longer run times.
*More adjust-ability.

Brushless motors are more powerful, durable, and efficient than brushed motors of the same size. Used in your radio controlled airplane, boat, or car, they can generate more power with longer run times.

What Is The Difference Between a Brushless Motor and Brushed motor?

A brushed motor uses stationary metallic contacts that 'brush' against moving metallic contacts. These 'brushes' are used to transfer electrical energy to coils on the rotating armature. A brushless motor consists of stationary coils and a rotating magnet that is connected to the output shaft. The coils are grouped together into phases, and an electronic motor controller powers up each coil in sequence, causing the magnet to rotate.



Informacion gentileza de Team3Six.

[Pelao Daza]

Los tips que encontre a pesar de estar en Ingles sin duda guardan mucho informacion que nos sirve a todos.

Les dejo el Link ya que parece una biblioteca !!!

Tips electronicos (hay una parte muy buena sobre las baterias).

http://www.team3sixrc.com/electronics101.htm

Tips para pintura !!

http://www.team3sixrc.com/airbrushcare101.htm

Saludos !!!

[JOTE]

Que buen post.... he leído harto y se agradece su creación, y aportes...


Saludos!!

[jarogo]

Un tips sobre motores novak brushless.

Para los que no saben.

Fíjense que rotor(lo que gira) traen los motores que tiene cada uno(ver catálogo o manual) que están usando en raid o crawler. Ya sea en 21,5 o 18,5
Para sacarles buen provecho deben tener un rotor de 14 m/m. de diámetro.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&FVSEARCH=5950
Esos le permitirá tener un muy buen torque ,freno mucho mejor y un esc un poco mas aliviado.
Hay algunos modelos(creo el ballistic) ya viene con esa medida. Los otros taen de 12,3 m/m


Saludos

[JOTE]

Empezado por jarogo

Un tips sobre motores novak brushless.

Para los que no saben.

Fíjense que rotor(lo que gira) traen los motores que tiene cada uno(ver catálogo o manual) que están usando en raid o crawler. Ya sea en 21,5 o 18,5
Para sacarles buen provecho deben tener un rotor de 14 m/m. de diámetro.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&FVSEARCH=5950
Esos le permitirá tener un muy buen torque ,freno mucho mejor y un esc un poco mas aliviado.
Hay algunos modelos(creo el ballistic) ya viene con esa medida. Los otros taen de 12,3 m/m


Saludos

Ejaleeeee estamos soltando secretillos!! jajajaja
Es así


Saludos!!